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We don’t need to tell you things get darker in the autumn. (You can just look out your window.) What may not be obvious is how those moody, broody, and spooky vibes are influencing the latest crop of fragrance trends. “The thread that connects all of the olfactory categories—especially florals, gourmands, and citruses—is how they’re all shifting from sweet and pretty to deep and mysterious this fall,” says Jeniece Trizzino, vice president of innovation and physical product at fragrance subscription service Scentbird New York. With the return of Wicked and Wednesday to our screens, Katri Haas, cofounder of the fragrance boutique Arielle Shoshana, says you can expect “Chanel Vamp, Essie Wicked, Clinique Black Honey energy, but in fragrance form.”
So what does all of this smell like exactly? There are the more literal interpretations, like the rise of ritualistic notes such as incense, myrrh, and palo santo, or the popularity of night-blooming florals. Then there’s the unexpected introduction of “dark comforts,” as Ines Guien, vice president of operations at Dossier Perfumes, calls them. Gourmands are “no longer about desserts or super-sweet perfumes,” she says. “We’re really pushing the boundaries, layering gourmands with smoky, spicy, or woody accords to add even more depth.”
Not every fall fragrance trend reflects this descent into the shadows. The ones that don’t still offer perfume lovers something special, whether it’s a unique pairing of notes, an evocative composition, or nostalgic inspiration. As perfumer Gustavo Romero sums it up, “This fall is about texture, mood, and a more grown-up way of playing with familiar ideas.” Discover the results of this experimentation below.
Meet the experts:
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- Jeniece Trizzino is vice president of innovation and physical product at fragrance subscription service Scentbird New York.
- Katri Haas is cofounder of Arielle Shoshana, a fragrance boutique based in Fairfax, Virginia.
- Ines Guien is the vice president of operations at Dossier Perfumes in New York City.
- Gustavo Romero is a New York City–based perfumer and founder of the Fragrance Alliance Network.
- Caroline Dumur is a Paris-based senior perfumer at International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) and perfumer for Penhaligon’s.
- Franco Wright is cofounder of Luckyscent.com and Scent Bar in Los Angeles and New York City.
- Frank Voelkl is a New York City-based principal perfumer at DSM-Firmenich.
Dark Gourmands
People just can’t quit vanilla—but why should they when it smells so damn good? Falling in line with fall’s moodier vibe, all types of gourmand fragrances are shedding some of their sweetness for a deeper, earthier, more mysterious edge. “Gourmand fragrances are transitioning toward more complex, unexpected profiles, combining edible notes with earthier ingredients,” says Caroline Dumur, an International Flavors & Fragrances perfumer. Trizzino is excited about these “dark gourmands,” which she says takes vanilla, “which was once considered very soft, feminine, and comforting, and moves it to a place that's richer, deeper, and more about seduction and mystery.”
Trizzino and Dumur say you’ll recognize these scents by their use of vanilla leaves or vanilla absolute alongside deeper notes like amber, leather, patchouli, and pink pepper. Heretic Dirty Vanilla does just that, surrounding a vanilla note with woods and vetiver for a hypnotic, slightly animalic scent. Confessions of a Rebel Birthday Suit smells like vanilla sugar and blown-out candles for a vibe that’s more adult birthday dinner than confetti cake and balloon animals. Phlur Vanilla Smoke Body Mist is similarly sweet and smoky, at a lower price point and lighter concentration.
Heretic
Dirty Vanilla Eau de Parfum
Credo Beauty
Bluemercury
Revolve
Confessions of a Rebel
Birthday Suit
Scentbird
Confessions of a Rebel
We’d be remiss to talk about this trend without mentioning DS & Durga Deep Dark Vanilla (it’s literally in the name) and Tom Ford Vanilla Sex (the epitome of an R-rated vanilla scent). The former combines vanilla absolute and green vanilla leaves with pink pepper and patchouli, while the latter brings bitter almond, sandalwood, and amber together with four different types of vanilla (vanilla derived from cold CO2 extraction, vanilla tincture from India, a liqueur-y vanilla absolute, and an ultra-vanille accord), resulting in a wholly unforgettable and irresistible eau.
Phlur
Vanilla Smoke Body Mist
Amazon
Nordstrom
Revolve
D.S. & DURGA
Deep Dark Vanilla Eau de Parfum
Nordstrom
Bluemercury
Revolve
Tom Ford
Vanilla Sex Eau de Parfum
Bluemercury
Saks Fifth Avenue
Sephora
Eau de Wild West
You know what wasn’t on our 2025 bingo card? Pop culture’s country western revival honky-tonkin’ its way into fine fragrance. “It’s the Yellowstone effect,” says Trizzino. (And, news to us, the series has its own fragrance line with scents like Ride, Tornado, and the questionable eau de Bunkhouse.) “Fragrances are taking inspiration from the dusty plains of the Wild West and from luxe leathers to harness this feeling of old Americana,” says Trizzino.
This crop of scents is reminiscent of stables and rodeos and characterized by notes like leather, suede, grass, hay, whiskey, and tobacco. “They evoke images of rugged landscapes and timeless freedom,” says Dumur. “Their appeal lies in their ability to transport wearers to an adventurous, nostalgic atmosphere.”
Refining these notes involves “careful balance and precise blending” to avoid them smelling too much like a stable, she adds. For example, Dumur’s most recent fragrance for Penhaligon’s, Fortuitous Finley (inspired not by Americana but by wild Arabian horses) incorporates a suede accord that the perfumer elevated with notes of violet leaf and pistachio. “It creates a sophisticated composition while still retaining its raw edge,” she explains.
At Luckyscent.com, Boyds of Texas High Desert is trending, says cofounder Franco Wright. According to Spate, searches for leather perfume are up 57.6%, with tobacco scents close behind at 54.3%. Iconic cowboy brand Stetson is experiencing a resurgence with its 2023 scent Legend (the face of which happens to be Yellowstone actor Luke Grimes), and even Wrangler has its own pair of eaux.
Penhaligon
Fortuitous Finley Eau de Parfum
Nordstrom
Saks Fifth Avenue
Boyds of Texas
High Desert Eau de Parfum
Lucky Scent
Stetson
Legend Eau de Toilette
Walmart
Wrangler
Original Perfume
Amazon
Walmart
Prestige brands are also dipping their toes into Western waters. Tom Ford launched Eau d’Ombré Leather in 2024 (cardamom, coriander, vanilla, and leather), complete with line-dancing models in the ad campaign. Yves Saint Laurent’s new Caban scent combines hay and tobacco with classic gourmand notes of tonka bean, almond, and caramel, while Marissa Zappas has Violette Hay that includes hay and violet notes (a common pairing) as well as carrot seeds, suede, and saffron.
Tom Ford
Eau d'Ombre Leather Cologne
Nordstrom
Ulta Beauty
Sephora
YSL Beauty
Caban Eau de Parfum
YSL Beauty
Marissa Zappas
Violette Hay
Marissa Zappas
Boozy citrus
Summer’s juicy, citrus-centered scents are sticking around for fall, but with a boozier twist. “Seasonal cocktails are going to be used to update citrus scents and bring this indulgent gourmand edge to them,” says Trizzino. Expect to see notes like orange peel, lemon, and bergamot spiked with tipples of whisky, rum, and bourbon. “Instead of citrus being bright and fresh and juicy, it's gone to a deeper, darker level because it's pairing it with these boozy notes,” Trizzino adds.
Boozy accords have been big for a while now. (We saw them bubble up in the spring and summer.) This fall, they’re more dressed up, says Romero. “Think dry whiskey, aged rum, and polished amaretto, often paired with woods or spices that let the alcohol feel warm and elegant rather than loud—like a dimly lit bar after midnight.”
Malin + Goetz
Malin+Goetz Dark Rum Eau de Parfum
Amazon
BORNTOSTANDOUT
Smokin' Gun Eau de Parfum
Revolve
SSENSE
Maison Margiela
Replica On A Date Eau de Toilette
Nordstrom
Sephora
Malin + Goetz Dark Rum, which combines bergamot, plum, rum, and vanilla, is a classic example of this trend. In Borntostandout’s Smokin’ Gun, whiskey and rum get shaken with juniper and peaty woody notes, while Maison Margiela Replica On a Date muddles bergamot with black currant liqueur for a lighter take on the trend. “The fizzy wine notes capture the feeling of an evening full of cocktails and chemistry,” says Trizzino.
Nocturnal florals
We love sun-drenched white floral fragrances in the summer, but come fall, you can expect moodier counterparts—perfumes inspired by lily of the valley, moonflower, midnight jasmine, evening primrose, and tuberose. This spotlight on night-blooming florals “reflects the transition from summer to autumn, as the days grow darker and the nights get colder,” Trizzino explains.
Perfumehead
Moon Flower Extrait de Parfum
Nordstrom
FWRD
Bergdorf Goodman
Dossier
Orchid & Sandalwood at Dusk Eau de Parfum
Amazon
Dossier
Chloé
Atelier des Fleurs Nuit d'Oranger Eau de Parfum
Nordstrom
Bloomingdale's
Perfumehead Moon Flower, recommended by Haas, is a heady floral bouquet of tuberose, night-blooming jasmine, and moonflower wrapped in a base of patchouli and musk. Dossier Orchid & Sandalwood at Dusk, on the other hand, combines orchid and jasmine with spicy cardamom, smoky incense, and woody patchouli. In its Fleurs de Nuit collection, Chloé has three fragrances inspired by night-blooming flowers, and with its spicy, ambery facet, Orchidée de Minuit is warm floral you’ll want to reach for in the cooler months.
Amber
Amber is set to be autumn’s coziest and most popular olfactive category. Scentbird has seen three amber-centric perfumes move into its top 10 bestsellers list this past year: Ariana Grande Cloud (an ambery gourmand), Heretic Parfum Nosferatu (woody amber), and a Y2K blast-from-the-past Prada Candy (also an amber gourmand). Search for amber perfumes is also up according to Spate, with 14.9K monthly searches on Google and an average of 228.2K weekly views on TikTok.
Ariana Grande
Cloud Eau de Parfum
Amazon
Ulta Beauty
Heretic
Nosferatu Eau De Macabre
Revolve
Heretic
Prada
Candy Eau de Parfum Spray
Nordstrom
Ulta Beauty
Not all amber fragrances are created equal, though. As a base note, amber provides a "sophisticated, warm, and rich scent, mainly playing a role in the background of a fragrance,” says DSM-Firmenich principal perfumer Frank Voelkl, who adds that there are different types of amber: amber built from vanillic and balsamic accords; amber that’s woody and dry; and minerally, ambergris-like interpretations. This fall, it seems we’re embracing all variations of the fragrance family.
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Perfumers are playing around with the amber category. While some are making amber scents more powerful, others are lightening things up. Perfumer Céline Barel, for example, created a new, more aromatic version of the amber accord for the Aesop Above Us, Steorra fragrance. Toning down the sweetness and powdery notes, the “Fabulist accord” as it’s called, is a blend of frankincense, labdanum, and vanilla bean that Barel combined with cardamom, cinnamon bark, and black pepper.
Aesop
Above Us, Steorra
Aesop
Sacred scents
Fragrance companies have heard that we could use all the positive vibes right now. “We’re seeing perfumes draw from elements like energy healing, ancient rituals, and astrology,” says Trizzino. These perfumes include notes that are chosen for their spiritual symbolism or ritualistic associations—frankincense, myrrh, palo santo, sandalwood, and amber—and then blended with earthy, grounded floral, and woody notes.
Incense, another element used across many spiritual ceremonies around the world, is also set to be huge this season. “Incense is it,” says Haas. “We’re seeing way more customers asking for these types of moody, androgynous scents.” Mexican brand Nopalera’s Dulce de Cuerpo perfume features incense at the heart of its warm, woody eau, as does Byredo Alto Astral, a mellow scent that sees smoky incense swirled throughout milky musks, creamy woods, and squeaky-clean aldehydes.
Nopalera
Dulce de Cuerpo Eau de Parfum
Nordstrom
Credo Beauty
Revolve
Byredo
Alto Astral Eau de Parfum
Nordstrom
Byredo
These sacred scents also tap into the “functional” perfume trend that’s been brewing over the past few years, as fragrance houses rush to develop technologies that promise to impact a person’s mood. “There's a growing desire for scents that offer more than just olfactory pleasure,” says Trizzino. “Consumers are seeking fragrances that provide emotional resonance or holistic well-being, which is another aspect of this sacred scent trend.”
But it’s important to clarify that the mood-enhancing fragrance space can be a murky one with much overpromising. While it’s true that fragrance and flavor houses are doing a lot of work to pinpoint the impact of scent and specific notes on the brain, the tests they’re running aren’t blind, placebo-controlled studies conducted outside the fragrance industry, which means no fragrance can claim to treat your depression or boost your dopamine.
That being said, if you just want to tap into some beautiful-smelling incenses, spices, and resins that have been used ritualistically for thousands of years, we say go ahead. Spritz your perfume, close your eyes, and say ommmmmm.
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